Posted January 2nd, 2007 by ckelly
Someone sent this story to me today and asked me to share it with all the Breeder Retriever folks. I got a kick out of it - hopefully you do too. (The full story can be found here and is reproduced below)
SARASOTA, Fla., (AP) Austin ricochets around the Ritz-Carlton hotel room, bouncing from bed to chair and leaping high to lick the face of his personal masseuse. He’s an energetic 4-year-old pug, so there is a lot of wriggling as his “privileged pup” pet massage begins. But soon his eyelids droop and his tiny muscles relax under the soothing touch of Darlene Davison, the Ritz-Carlton Sarasota’s spa director.
“OK, sweetheart, OK. There you go,” coos Davison, creator of the luxury hotel chain’s latest indulgence - the $130 dog massage.
Figure in the hotel’s 20-pound weight limit and the additional $125 nonrefundable pet fee and the “privileged pup” plan comes out to a minimum of $12.75 a pound. And that’s the basic package.
For another $220, the Ritz throws in gourmet dog biscuits, an in-room pet massage, a choice of nail buffing or nail polish, a souvenir photo, a brisk walk over Sarasota’s scenic Ringling Bridge and a gourmet meal of organic stew and designer water served on a silver tray.
Americans spend about $38.4 billion on their pets annually, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturer’s Association. Spending on pets increased an average of $2.3 billion a year since the association started tracking numbers in 1997.
“The trend, in the last year especially, is people enjoying things they can do with their pet,” said Charlotte Reed, the New York-based author of the upcoming book “Miss Fido Manners Complete Book of Dog Etiquette.” Reed has four dogs, three cats and several birds.
“People take their dogs to baseball games,” Reed said. “People are going to fashion shows with their pets. People are going to benefits and art shows with their pets. You all dress nicely, put on your big diamonds and put on your pet’s boa, or tuxedo shirt if it’s a boy.”
The platinum and pocket pup set are defintely the Ritz’s target demographic.
The Ritz packages remain a budget buster for the average pet owner. An hour on the massage table at the Ritz equals an average year’s worth of dog grooming and treats.
Davison said the blow is softened a bit by the obligatory massage lesson. Florida law says veterinary procedures _ including massages _ must be done in a vet’s office unless it is for educational purposes. So Davison and five other dog-certified spa employees use the hour to demonstrate Swedish, sports or relaxation massage techniques to dog owners.
The lesson sold Austin’s owners, Larry and Deborah Colton of Oldsmar, Fla. The couple drove about an hour to the Sarasota Ritz to celebrate Larry Colton’s 59th birthday and do some shopping. They brought their pugs, Austin and 2-year-old Phoenix.
Deborah Colton said she wanted to learn pet massage for her 11-year-old lab mix, Kalua, who has arthritis. Kalua is too big to stay at the Ritz, so Austin got the massage.
“Massage is very important,” Colton said. “I tend to do for my pets what I do for myself. I know the wonderful effects of massage so that’s why I wanted to do this.”
The Sarasota Ritz dog massage program is a pilot program for the whole chain, Davison said. She began offering services about three months ago and said business has varied from a peak of three canine customers in a week to no takers for several weeks in a row.
The hotel is working on more owner-pet pampering packages, although the human indulgences are being planned for the Ritz’s luxury spa. No dogs allowed.
That rubs Reed the wrong way.
“I would spend $250 to get us both rubbed down … so I can look over and smiling adoringly at my pet enjoying herself,” Reed said. “That would be fun for me.”
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Posted December 21st, 2006 by ckelly
As part of my efforts to expand BreederRetriever.com’s breeder directory, I began contacting Jack Russell Terrier and Parson Russell Terrier breeders today. To my great surprise, within half an hour of sending out emails to breeders of these dogs, I had received several irate emails from breeders of Jacks who didn’t want to be associated with breeders of Parsons and vice versa. I had long been aware of the friction between these two groups, but I never realized just how seriously some breeders take this debate. In an effort to better my understanding, I began searching for articles on the subject and came across a very informative article at Pet Publishing. Enjoy…
The Great Jack Russell Debate
The Jack Russell terrier is not so much a breed as it is a type of dog - one that was developed to go to ground in pursuit of game such as fox and badgers. Going to ground is a many splendored affair that involves following quarry into a tunnel or a hold without hesitation, then pursing said quarry until it bolts out the other end of the tunnel or is trapped underground. In the former event a pack of hounds with which the Jack Russell is in collusion usually take up the chase. In the latter event the Jack Russell terrier is expected to bark energetically to indicate the location of its quarry and to stay at the task until the hunter comes along to unearth the dog and whatever it has cornered. This procedure sometimes requires the assistance of earth-moving machinery.
Motley Ancestors
Although the Jack Russell terrier was named after the hunting parson who developed the original strain, the parson’s stock “had little or no influence on the evolution of the modern Jack Russell,” says D. Brian Plummer in The Complete Jack Russell Terrier. After Parson Russell’s death in 1883 “his kennels were dispersed,” reports Plummer. Some of the Russell’s dogs reputedly went to Squire Nicholas Snow of Oare, and these became the foundation stock of Arthur Heinemann, who is often credited with being the last breeder of the “true” Jack Russell terriers. Be that as it may, other breeders certainly put their spin - and whatever stock they found appropriate or convenient - on the Jack Russell. Thus, says Plummer, “any white-bodied working terrier of dubious ancestry simply came to be known as a Jack Russell;” and by the middle of this century hunt terrier shows “were indeed extraordinary sights, with the most amazingly variable types of dog being proudly shown as genuine Jack Russells; some of the displayed hints of collie, or, not infrequently, dachshund, in their lineage.” One thing these dogs did have in common was the fact that they were not recognized by the organizations that register dogs and license dogs shows. This situation prevailed because most of their owners liked it that way, an ironic development as the Parson himself was one of the founding members of the Kennel Club in Great Britain.
Who Speaks for the Jack Russell?
The Jack Russell’s size, impishness and undeniable cuteness, however - not to mention its frequent appearances in movies, advertisements and television shows, have conspired to ensure it a high profile about the general public. Search any newspaper or magazine database and you are sure to find at regular intervals someone somewhere writing an article that anoints the Jack Russell as the latest “in” dog. This popularity breeds contempt on the part of some persons who fear that favor is the path to perdition for dog breeds. Worse yet, say the defenders of the Jack Russell faith, recognition by the various associations would be tantamount to the post-coital embrace of certain female spiders. Nevertheless, the Jack Russell terrier, under the sobriquet the Parson Jack Russell terrier, has been recognized by the Kennel Club in Britain. Moreover, a variety of the Jack Russell has been recognized by the United Kennel Club in this country. Thus far, the American Kennel Club recognition has not been secured, though the Jack Russell Terrier Breeders Association in the United States is dedicated to that objective. Persons who seek recognition for the Jack Russell believe, as Jean and Frank Jackson wrote in Parson Jack Russell Terriers, that “official recognition provides a framework of authority, access to reliable services, a means to national and international influence, and opportunity to become involved as equals with other recognized breeds, which can only be of benefit.” Other Jack Russell fanciers disagree. The Jack Russell Terrier Club of America (JRTCA), founded in 1976, believes that the breed’s future “can be greatly endangered by attempts to standardize this terrier into yet another show breed, encouraging breed for form rather than function, with little to no concern to the true nature of the dog.” The JRTCA registers terriers that meet its breed standard, have been examined by a veterinarian and certified free of genetic defects and are not the result of any inbreeding (parent-offspring or brother-sister matings). The club also sponsors Jack Russell competitions designed to simulate the kinds of tasks that working Jack Russells perform and operates a breed-rescue service. Through all this activity the JRCTA’s overriding mission is to preserve the working qualities of the breed. This mission is questioned by some people who own working Jack Russells. The assumption that Kennel Club recognition will ruin the working qualities of the Jack Russell “is a little ludicrous,” scoffs Plummer, “if one examines it closely with a modicum of thought and common sense (sadly rare commodities in dog breeders, I’m afraid). For the Kennel Club has little or no influence” over what it’s members do with their dogs. “It remains the duty of breeders and exhibitors to ensure that the dog is kept as a working breed.” The notion of preserving the working qualities of the Jack Russell - or of any dog - in an increasingly suburbanized society is problematic. The Jack Russell was originally bred to assist the foxhound in its work, but how many people in this country ride to hounds any more? The Jack Russell has also been used to hunt badgers and rats, the latter in the decidedly incorrect sport of competitive rat killing; but how many people in this country engage in organized, count-and-weigh-the-kill rat slaughter? (For the record, Plummer’s Jack Russells took three tons of rats in 1977.) The JRTCA’s various Jack Russell competitions - terrier races, go-to-ground trials, etc. - are attended by a small percentage of Jack Russell owners. One suspects that the club’s greatest services to the breed might lie in warning off unsuitable owners and in placing rescued Jack Russells in more suitable homes than those in which it was their misfortune to have been sent originally. One further suspects that the Jacksons may have a point when they write, “What appear to be growing threats to the existence of field sports… introduce the possibility that at some time in the future it may no longer be possible for many of these breeds to follow their traditional occupation. Recognition might, therefore, by offering alternative activities be regarded as an insurance against the possibility that these breeds might disappear along with their traditional activities.”
John Russell’s Standard
The kind of terrier Parson John Russell admired is similar to the kind specified in the standard of the Jack Russell Terrier Club of America (JRTCA) today. The ideal terrier, said Russell 126 years ago, is “a small, energetic terrier of from 14/16 lb. in weight, standing about 14 inches at the wither [shoulder].” The JRTCA’s standard is a little more flexible, calling as it does for a height of 10 to 15 inches. In addition, whereas the parson said the Jack Russell’s coat should be “good, rough, weather-resisting [and] a trifle wiry,” the JRTCA standard accommodates three kids of coats: smooth, rough and broken. Like his foundation bitch, Trump - whom Russell described as “white with just a patch of dark over each eye and ear, with a similar, but not much larger than a penny, piece at the root of the tail” - the modern-day Jack Russell is predominately white, at least 51 percent white. Most significantly, the JRTCA’s observation that the Jack Russell should “present a lively, active and alert appearance [and] should impress with its fearless and happy disposition,” is entirely in keeping with Russell’s notion of what the ideal terrier should be.
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Posted December 20th, 2006 by kkibak
On November 20th I posted a list of things we’d finished and a list of things that were on our to-do list. The items we were expecting to add “soon or in the future” were:
- A zip code search that will show you the X number of nearest breeders (maybe 5 or 10) for that specific breed and your zipcode.
- A thorough approval process that ensures quality breeders are the ones listed.
- A hosting service for breeds who don’t have or can’t afford their own website. Currently we want to offer this service for free, if we can afford it.
- A new forum template (expect this within the next few days) that is more user friendly and customized.
- New fun tools like the breed selector.
- Connect this blog with the main site once it has a few more posts.
- Improve the photo sharing platform so it is as user friendly as possible.
Today is December 20th. Which of these have we attacked over the past month?
- No progress made on the zip code searches, but it’s on the calendar and we haven’t forgotten.
- The breeder approval process has been vastly improved. We are now able to include breed clubs in the approval process—a partnership we hope will help maintain the integrity of our breeder directory.
- Hosting: we have made advancements on the logistical end—that is, we have researched how we could best implement a useful breeder hosting platform. With Chris and I composing the entire support team, however, we are a little nervous about releasing a free service that people would undoubtedly need a lot of help with.
- The new forum template is online. We like it, but it doesn’t seem to work well with our photo sections (at least in my opinion), so we are considering alternatives.
- New fuin tools are still in the works. We have ideas, though, so keep your eyes peeled!
- This blog has been connected to the main site.
- I feel the photo sharing platform still needs a lot of work. Right now it is a bit intimidating / cumbersome for new users. We want it to be as straight forward and easy to use as possible.
Other improvements (these are the improvements we’ve implemented that I didn’t mention before):
- Log in system for breeders—you can now log in using the e-mail address and password you entered when submitting breeder information.
- New options for logged in breeders—“View My Listing,” which displays a user’s listing as it appears in the directory, and “Edit My Listing,” which allows users to make some changes to their information.
- These are internal but important: We developed some new scripts that help us effectively contact breeders to encourage registration.
- Added about 10 new banners in the Link to Us section (if you haven’t already, please do!).
- Customized the Link to Us page so that logged in breeders will get links specific to their breed(s).
- Upgraded our version of PHP.
- Upgraded our server administration platform.
- Added the “Help Us Improve” form and included a link to it in all the breed write-ups.
- We are 75% done developing a “ticketing” system that will help us keep track of inquiries, comments, etc. so that we can be as effective as possible in replying to our visitors.
- About 50% done setting up a fairly advanced sitemaps generator to help the search engines index our site better.
- Added a brief disclaimer to the directory.
- Added Canadian provinces to the submit breeder info page to accommodate our Canadian audience.
- Completely changed the way directory listings are displayed—adopted a “business card” format.
- Added a help page explaining how to share pictures using our photo platform.
- Removed the poll from the site
- Added a little paw image that now shows in the address bar on modern browsers
- Programmed a backend that allows us to incorporate breed clubs in the approval process.
- Improved security of the site.
- Changed the markers next to each sub section in the dog breed information area.
- I feel like there must be more we’ve done, but I can’t think of it at the moment. Good thing I can always come back and edit
- As always, if any readers have suggestions or requests for new changes / improvements, just post a comment letting us know and we will do our best.
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Posted December 18th, 2006 by ckelly
Greetings, gentle readers. It’s been a couple weeks since my last post, so I thought I’d write a quick post to let you all know how things are going with the website.
For the last few weeks, I’ve been devoting a majority of my time to building out the breeder directory. Each morning, I have at least a dozen breeders awaiting approval for the directory, so I spend a couple hours each day investigating these breeders and working with our breeder approvers to make sure only ethical breeders make it into our directory (a special thanks to all of our volunteers, by the way!). Once that’s done, I start contacting the breeder referral agents of a handful of national breed clubs looking for quality breeders to contact about the directory, and then I wait to start the whole cycle over again the next morning.
I’ve also been spending a lot of time talking to users of the site, listening to their suggestions and corrections and helping them use the tools we have provided here. This has been an educational and humbling experience, as I’ve learned that the collective canine knowledge of our guests is incredibly immense and eager to find an audience. Thanks for all the input, guys!
In my spare time, I’ve been thinking about articles to add to the site and talking with one of our writers about adding some information on various topics that might be of interest to the dog enthusiast community. So far, we’ve come up with breed specific legislation, designer breeders, puppy mills, dog parks, training, human/dog interest stories as possible topics for upcoming articles. Any other ideas out there? Share them in the forums!
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Posted December 1st, 2006 by ckelly
I just read a rather touching article by Michelle Bender and Kim Townsend on rehabilitating puppy mill dogs, published on A New Start on Life. The plight of these dogs is sad, but I find it uplifting that there are people out there willing to invest some extra time and care to bring these dogs around. The article is reproduced below:
Every mill survivor is different. What works on one or many, will completely fail on another. The only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding and love. And probably most importantly, acceptance. Unconditional acceptance of what they are capable of giving, and taking.
At first glance a mill survivor may look like many of your friends’ dogs. Maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won’t see is the condition that they came into rescue in. Hair so matted that it all had to be shaved off. Even the short haired breeds suffer from thin dull coats when they come to us. Many times removing the filth and matting have only revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Ears are full of filth and usually mites. Some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. The gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will misdiagnose age if going by the teeth. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from so much time walking on wire. So while finally getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care can go a long way on the outside, the real damage has been done to the inside.
I’d love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet. But that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being “up to it” is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have been through more than they ever should have already. If the entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found.
Handling:
Many mill survivors have spent their entire life in the mill. No romping around a living room playing with friends of the family for them. Only a cold wire cage, and one person “tending” to them. Puppies who grow up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans. They don’t learn to trust, to love, to play. They have had very minimum physical contact with people. No cuddling and kissing for them.
The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their “stock” by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don’t really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. So it is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive to the backs of their necks, after all, it brings the unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind, you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating you picking them up and consistently verbally tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like “up”. It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up. Some will even roll onto their backs in submission.
Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. It’s almost a ‘hostage’ type situation to these dogs. Imagine how you would feel if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman may never harm you in any way, but you are aware of the danger the entire time and you don’t have the ability to leave when you want. No matter how nice the gunman is to you, you will never enjoy the experience and will always watch for an escape route. However, you can turn the tables around and see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has been captured and you decide to visit him in jail. Now you are in control. you call all the shots, you have the ability to leave at any time. The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them.
Learning about the House:
Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring into your home should be kept separated from other family pets for 7 days. During this time it is fine to crate or confine them to a quiet area. After that though, they need to have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become used to it. They need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking.
Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. During this time when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but also will offer your dog confidence in the future.
Gaining Trust:
A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part. I have seen a lot of mill dogs not want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you near by. You don’t have to stand and watch over them but should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their yummy meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward.
While you shouldn’t overly force yourself upon your dog, it does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this an area where they, not necessarily you, are the most comfortable. They probably won’t like it at first, but will get used to it. Some dogs sadly, never do though, and I’ll talk more about them later.
Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you bring your guest outside you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away.
Housebreaking:
A child spends the first 12-18 months of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures…you are UN-teaching them something that they have already learned to be acceptable. A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are a must! Would you ever scream at your child, march them to the bathroom and make them sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered they soiled their diaper? A dog is no different in this sense. Scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone.
The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding pattern (which will put them on a regular potty pattern) and observe them closely after feeding time.
Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool which normally is firm (very easy to clean up) and only one or two bowel movements a day are normal. Low cost or over the counter foods have a lot of fillers and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these foods.
Before you even begin to housebreak them, you must learn their schedule. Most dogs will need to ‘go’ right after eating. As soon as they are finished eating, command “Outside”. Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face…every dog is different and you have to learn to recognize how the dog will behave right before he goes. This way you will recognize it when he gets ready to go in the house.
We could give you a million tips that our adopters have found to work best for them, but as I said, every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year…and sadly, some dogs will never learn. Never give up and never accept ‘accidents’ as a way of life. In most cases, the success of housebreaking depends on your commitment.
Marking:
Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common…they were all used for breeding. A dog which marks its territory is ‘warning’ other dogs that this is its area…stay away! However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog’s area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their ‘territory’. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems.
Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word ‘NO’ will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don’t be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the exact same word and don’t follow ‘NO’ with “now what has mommy told you about that, you are a bad dog.”
Dogs that are marking do not have to potty…taking them outside will not help. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to ‘dominate’ by taking them outside and even to areas where you know other dogs have been…like the park, or the nearest fire hydrant.
While you and your survivor learn about each other and your survivor develops a sense of respect for you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful.
1. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again. Most cleaning products contain ammonia…the very scent found in urine. Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar.
2. Potty Pads….your next best friend. These can be found in any pet store, but most ‘housebreaking pads’ are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads to any area that your dog is prone to mark (walls, furniture, etc.). Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them…simply spray them down with vinegar. These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem.
3. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing more than a paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills (and in our case, urine). You can make your own product by filling a spray bottle about 1/2 full of hot water. Shave off slivers of paraffin wax into the bottle (about 1/4 a bar should be fine) and then microwave until you don’t see the slivers anymore. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally ‘blend’ in with normal household temperatures and humidity. (note: This is also great for high traffic areas of your home or along the carpet in front of the couch).
With the use of vinegar and/or homemade scotch guard, you should test a small area of the fabric/fiber that you will be using the product on and make sure it does not discolor, stain, or bleed. I have never had any problems, but it is always best to check beforehand.
4. Belly Bands. Sometimes these can be a (male) mill dog owners best friend. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of your husbands tube socks, the sleeve of sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure.
Quirks:
Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, #2, feces, poop, stool…whatever ‘pet’ name you give it, it’s still gross! But nothing is more gross than owning a dog who eats poop!
Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we’re just going to call it the ‘affliction’.
Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior.
There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted. I’ll start with the most common, and easiest to remedy.
1. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog’s feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask yourvet what products are available and you will normally see results in 2-4 weeks.
2. Learned behavior. This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs who fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in severe injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and ‘flavors’ as the original meal and is therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he’d ate the real thing.
This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog’s life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It’s become habit…and as the saying goes, “Old habits are hard to break”.
Dogs with this affliction will actually go hunting for a fresh stool when you take them outside. The key is to give your dog something better to hunt for. Pop some unbuttered/unsalted microwave popcorn and sprinkle it on the lawn before taking your dog out in the morning. You may find something that he likes better and is as readily available and affordable. The good thing about popcorn is what your dog doesn’t eat, the birds will. I can almost guarantee that once your dog has learned to search out the popcorn, he’ll pass those fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks or months before your dog ‘unlearns’ to seek out stools but most dogs are receptive to this training. You may have to sprinkle the lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog’s life…but the trouble is well worth just one ‘popcorn kiss’ as opposed to a lick on the face right after he eats a tasty turd.
3. As mentioned above, Coprophagia means ‘eating poop’. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural ‘need’ to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. Remember the kid in school who ate paste and chalk and ‘other unspeakables’? Pica is a psychological disorder which is much more in depth and serious than anything I can discuss in this guide.
A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery…often several times…for objects they have ate that can not be digested. If you are the owner of a dog which you believe suffers from Pica, I suggest you consult your vet. These dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed.
Before I close this section on Pica, I want to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks…or sofas and table legs. However a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items…they will eat these items any chance they get. Just because your dog is eating his own stool…and also the bar stool at the kitchen counter…does not mean that he is suffering from Pica. If in doubt, consult your vet.
The “special” ones:
Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be “brought around”. These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind me of children who are abused who survive by separating their mind from the body. They will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life. They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are excepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch. But you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss.
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Posted November 27th, 2006 by ckelly
I read an article today that really got me thinking about the relationship between humans and dogs. The author, Jonathon Safran Foer, argues that as technological innovation leads humans to take up ever more space on the planet, it is important to respect the space of animals and to allow them room to live alongside us. He points out that allowing dogs to run free and play in open areas leads them to be happier, which in turn leads to fewer dog bites and less aggressive behavior. However, he also points out the difficulties inherent in protecting an animal that can’t argue for itself, especially when dog ownership can sometimes be “a major pain.”
As I read the article, I began to consider the idea that it is not just people who don’t care for dogs or are indifferent that cause these problems; even dog lovers can be at fault sometimes. Apartment dwellers are a perfect example of this conundrum. Foer points out that there are around 1.4 million dogs in the city of New York, and I think it’s safe to say that a majority of those dogs don’t have free access to a yard or open area for most of the day. I have friends and family members whose love for dogs is beyond refute, but who live in apartments and condos. They give their dogs as much attention as they can, and walk them in the mornings and evenings, but the fact remains that their dogs are alone and enclosed from 9 AM to 6 PM five days a week. I would never ask a true dog lover to forego the wonderful experience of dog ownership simply because she lived in an apartment, but I really wonder if these apartment dogs feel lonely and caged in. And it makes me sad sometimes to think that even those who love dogs and want to help them might actually be hurting them.
I think that proper dog care goes beyond having a great affection for animals. It is not enough to appreciate the happy feelings your dog inspires in you or the close bond you feel with your dog; one must always think about what is best for dogs - what inspires happy feelings in them and what they think about their living situation. And as sad as it may be, I think the kindest thing some people could do for their dogs is to give them away; many breeds weren’t meant to be caged, and are utterly dependent on open spaces and a lot of exercise. If you don’t have the time or ability to take your pet out and just let him “be a dog” everyday, you’re doing him a great disservice. Love is not enough.
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Posted November 20th, 2006 by kkibak
After a lot of hard work, we’ve released a beta version of our breeder directory.
The directory is designed to help people looking for dogs find rescue organizations and breeders in their area. We also hope the site will help educate potential owners with respect to the breed(s) they are interested in.
As of now, there is an administrator approval area, but since we are currently not displaying contact information in full detail, we are approving almost every breeder that fills out the form correctly. Once we have finished revising the directory and making it fully functional, we will start implementing a process for verifying breeders and making sure they are following the right breeding practices (we hope to garner the support of clubs and rescue organizations in this process, as it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, for us to do this on our own).
Right now, the basic functionality is as follows:
- Breeders can submit their information using the “submit breed info” section.
- We can approve, disapprove, or queue the applicants.
- If approved, the applicant appears in the directory. This means the breeder shows up on the maps and in the correct categories based on their location and breeds.
- As a side note: the home page map (scroll to the bottom of the page) is basically just for fun–it will have too many points to be of real use. It is just a neat way for us to see visually how many breeders have signed up and how diversely located those breeders are. If you are actually looking for a breeder in your area, we would want you to use the full directory by either clicking the traditional directory links or using the currently nicknamed “QuickGo” tool.
What do we expect to add soon or in the future?
- A zip code search that will show you the X number of nearest breeders (maybe 5 or 10) for that specific breed and your zipcode.
- A thorough approval process that ensures quality breeders are the ones listed.
- A hosting service for breeds who don’t have or can’t afford their own website. Currently we want to offer this service for free, if we can afford it.
- A new forum template (expect this within the next few days) that is more user friendly and customized.
- New fun tools like the breed selector.
- Connect this blog with the main site once it has a few more posts.
- Improve the photo sharing platform so it is as user friendly as possible.
We have other ideas in mind, but these are the ones that are currently most urgent.
Of course, if you have any feedback at all, just comment or send me an email. We (seriously) work very hard to listen to your advice and do whatever we can to implement your suggestions. We want the site’s direction to be largely guided by what the users and community are looking for.
Well, I guess that sums up my first blog post
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